A MESSAGE TO THE PEOPLE OF PORTUGAL:
I'M SORRY!
I HAVE BEEN HARDENED BY LIVING TOO LONG IN THE AREA OF GREATER LISBON AND I HAVE BEEN UNJUST.
In three days in Porto I only encountered one miserable bastard café owner and one miserable bastard who wouldn't even deign to say good morning to me in a hotel lift (and he was probably from Lisbon anyway). Almost everyone was cheerful and kind and helpful... a taxi driver, A TAXI DRIVER, said "good morning, are you well... so, where can I take you?" ... imagine anything other than "grunt!" in Lisbon...
I was blown away having become so used to the dry grumps that sell me coffee or newspaper or train tickets.
But, something else is likely to stay with me for even longer, at least in my digestive system:
The Professor has been keen that Madge and I try a francesinha forever, but we've never got around to it. On Saturday night, it happened... the francesinha happened...
Food in Porto is like food in America: there's just way too much of it... thank goodness for the half dose, which is usually still too big for me. The pastelarias have more cakes with more eggs and more sugar in them than the rest of the country put together and as much as I'd love to live there I would probably be the size of a Port warehouse by the end of a year or two.
At some point in the twentieth century the people of Porto adopted the simple
croque monsieur and made it their own by transforming it into the Francesinha (little frenchie-wenchie).
It did for me.
It has this magical gravy which I believe contains everything including the kitchen sink (contents), and it's delicious... I was saving it on the plate so I could dip some of the small peoples' chips in it, but it all got soaked up by the bread. And inside the half kilo of melted flamengo (edam-ish, another pt adoption made "nacional") which you have to be careful not to choke on, there's a sandwich with all kinds of charcuterie in just waiting to stop your heart. Madness in a food.
Madge and I discovered some important things this weekend: don't eat for a week before or a week after a francesinha; don't expect to get through one meal on holiday without at least one daughter needing to punctuate it with doing a poo; madge's three year old can speak in tongues; and drive very slowly on the marginal from Ponte Luís I along the river and around the coast, cos there ain't many walls to stop you falling in. Fantastic.